John Markby's Guide to Whangārei

Published on 18 December 2024

If there's one thing More FM host John Markby loves about Whangārei, it's our big, beautiful backyard. If you're looking for the best places to run, kayak, dive or relax on the beach, you're in the right place. He might even share his favourite coffee spot too...

A scenic photo of Busby Head

My favourite place to run is:

"Bream Head in Whangārei Heads has to be one of my favourite places to run. There's a loop that heads past the WWII gun emplacements and over to beautiful Smugglers Bay. I've also done the Northpower Wild Kiwi event which tackles Mt Lion and its many, many stairs. I just love, love the bush. Every day I'm overwhelmed by the beautiful bush that surrounds Whangārei."

Where to find it: Bream Head is accessible via a carpark at the end of Urquhart's Bay Road. There is a 3km and a 5km option for the loop walk, as well as a direct path to Smugglers Bay that takes approximately 15 minutes.

"You'll also find me on the Waimahanga Walkway or Boswells Track, or at Whangārei's ParkRun, which starts at 8am every Saturday from the Te Matau a Pohe carpark. You'll be in good company, with up to 300 people taking part every week."

Where to find it: The Waimahanga Walkway is a series of linked harbourside walks that forms part of the Onerahi Shared Path (connecting to the Hātea Loop Walkway). Access is via Waimahanga Road, Waverley Street or Cockburn Street.

Two people kayaking in Whangarei Heads

My favourite way to enjoy the water is:

"I often hit the water on my kayak, cruising out to Matakohe Limestone Island and exploring the remnants of the old factory. I'm lucky to live on the water in Waikaraka so I launch the kayak straight from home, paddle out 100m, and catch a fish or two for dinner (if they're biting). I would tell you where my favourite fishing spots are, but honestly, I'm still trying to get locals to share them! If I'm heading out on the boat, I'll launch at Parua Bay and head towards One Tree Point."

Where to find it: Matakohe Limestone Island is a 37ha island that has been restored to a vibrant coastal broadleaf forest thanks to the dedication of local volunteers. The island was once a pa site and has retained remnants of its time as a limestone quarry. You can reach the island via private boat, kayak or paddleboard from Onerahi boat ramp, otherwise there are some private tours available. 

"If you're into diving, the Poor Knights Islands are exceptional. I was lucky enough to learn to dive there in the 90s and I think it spoilt me – if you start at one of the best diving locations in the world, you're disappointed anywhere else."

Where to find it: The Poor Knights Marine Reserve is located 50km northeast of Whangārei and can be accessed via private boat or an organised diving or snorkelling tour. The marine reserve extends 800 metres out from any part of the islands, islets, rocks and stacks. You are welcome to swim, dive, kayak within this area, enjoying the diversity of marine life, but you are not allowed to land.

If I'm heading to the beach, I'm going to:

"Whale Bay was one of the first beaches I went to when I moved from Whanganui 38 years ago, and I couldn't believe it. I think I went there every day for three months. We're so lucky to live in Whangārei, we can be at work in the morning and on holiday in the afternoon."

Where to find it: Whale Bay is a much-loved favourite of locals. Access is just past Matapōuri, via a short downhill walkway (parking is signposted) through groves of ancient Pūriri trees.

"Mimiwhangata is magical but remote. There's a long gravel road so you have to drive carefully, but it's absolutely worth it."

Where to find it: Mimiwhangata Coastal Park has a superb landscape and shoreline, fringed by a 2000ha marine park. Enjoy the many walks or relax on a secluded beach - the choice is yours!

My favourite place to eat is:

"I can’t go past scrambled eggs and a coffee (flat white in a mug) from Serenity Cafe, in the Town Basin. Their pies are great too. I think Helena Bay Gallery and Cafe must have the best views of any cafe in New Zealand - spectacular. We also have a lot of really great sushi in Whangārei".

Where to find it: Serenity Cafe is one of several excellent cafes and restaurants in the Town Basin. Enjoy a walk or run around the Hātea Loop and treat yourself to some delicious kai afterwards! 

If there was one thing I would recommend to summer visitors, it would be:

"You really have to explore Mair Park and enjoy one of the many walks and tracks along the river or head up Parihaka."

Where to find it: The Whangarei Central Walks brochure is a wealth of information on local walks. Download it here(PDF, 10MB) or visit the Whangārei isite Information Centre to pick up a copy.

John Markby is one of Whangārei's icons, with 45 years of radio under his belt, including 38 years here in Northland. The More FM Breakfast Club, hosted by John, Flash and Toast is live on air every weekday from 5.30am to 10am at 91.6FM.